County Cork, Ireland, has a certain magic, and the road south just deepens that enchantment with every mile. Leaving behind the serene beauty of Gougane Barra and its iconic lakeside chapel, the journey winds through a landscape steeped in history, past forests where vibrant foxgloves paint the hillsides. Bantry House, a stunning estate overlooking a picturesque bay, acts as a landmark on the way to Ballydehob, the bohemian heart of West Cork, nestled just north of the dramatic Mizen Head peninsula.
This impressive setting provides the perfect backdrop for Native, an innovative off-grid eco-guesthouse located a stone's throw from the village. The brainchild of Didi Ronan, formerly involved in public policy and the music industry, and her husband Simon, who leads the sustainable landscape architecture studio SRLA, Native embodies a vision: to create a hospitality experience that actively benefits both the environment and the local community.
Transformed from a once-derelict farmhouse, this chic three-bedroom B&B is nestled within meticulously crafted gardens, each detail a celebration of Irish craft and heritage. From the inviting communal living room, filled with art books and antique maps, to the soothing timber-clad garden sauna, every element is thoughtfully considered. The bedrooms offer a harmonious blend of modern design and traditional Irish aesthetics, featuring muted color palettes and richly textured materials. Our room opened onto a private patio, and the wall above the bed was adorned with a striking display of vintage National Geographic magazines – a cherished collection from Didi's grandmother, arranged with artistic precision on a custom bookshelf.
Over an exquisite dinner of delicate crab risotto featuring fresh farm greens (pre-booked evening meals are intimate, home-cooked affairs), Didi and Simon shared their inspiration. A pivotal moment for Simon, while designing luxury eco-resorts in the Maldives, exposed the often-hidden costs of tourism on Indigenous lands and fragile ecosystems. This sparked a desire to create a new paradigm of hospitality. "Could a hotel not just minimize its impact, but actively contribute back to the land?" they pondered.
Sustainability is at the core of Native, woven into every aspect from its construction to the allocation of its profits. Didi opted for hemp, a natural and eco-friendly alternative, instead of conventional plaster, while Simon meticulously repurposed existing materials, from the original foundations to the retaining walls. This summer will see the opening of three new cabins, designed to set a "gold standard in sustainable architecture," built using locally sourced timber, hemp, and wood wool fibre. A beautifully restored barn will also be unveiled, offering a creative space for workshops, natural wine tastings, and collaborative projects with local foragers and artisans.
Perhaps most noteworthy is Native's commitment to dedicating 20% of its profits to their nearby 75-acre rewilding site – a dynamic learning environment dedicated to native tree planting, invasive species management, and ecological education. Guests are encouraged to explore this living laboratory. The next day, following winding country roads, we joined Didi and Simon, along with their energetic dog, Peig, for a walk through fields to learn more. "The first step is to eradicate invasive species, then conserve what you have, protect it from overgrazing, and finally, plant native trees to accelerate the natural process," Simon explained.
Reaching the crest of a hill, the landscape opened to a breathtaking panorama of the sea and scattered islands. Below us stretched Roaringwater Bay, while behind us, the haunting remains of an old cottage clung to the earth. Didi pointed towards a cluster of young trees. "The challenges – biodiversity loss, climate change – can seem overwhelming, but the solutions are actually quite simple: trees, wetlands, space."
The path led us down towards a man-made lake, alive with dragonflies and skittering moorhens. Here, we met Sam Keane, a coastal forager and artist who leads immersive coastal tours, inviting guests to unlock the hidden powers of the sea, and discover the flavors and powerful healing properties of seaweed and other ocean flora.
Native's location also places it within easy walking distance of Ballydehob, a village that, despite its small size (just a few hundred residents), boasts a vibrant spirit. Later that day, I strolled through its charming streets, absorbing the lively local atmosphere. Ballydehob over-delivers, not in size, but in spirit. At Levis Corner House, the Wednesday market spilled onto the street. A true community hub, Levis serves as a pub, a concert venue (hosting live performances from behind the old shop counter), and essentially, a welcoming village living room.
A thriving art scene also thrives here. The late potters Christa Reichel and Nora Golden were instrumental in establishing the local craft movement in the 1970s, a legacy still visible in venues like The Working Artist Studios on Main Street, and in the array of homegrown ceramics, textiles, and artisan food shops nestled between the colorful pub facades and gable-end murals.
Leaving Ballydehob is difficult, but the next day I ventured further afield. A striking 12-arch viaduct, once part of the old rail line, spans the estuary at the edge of town. Pastel-colored shop fronts line the hillside. The 17th-century Butter Road leads from Ballydehob to Schull, a bright and cheerful harbor village. I paused to explore a walking trail through green lanes and quiet country roads, a gentle scenic route, lined with hedgerows and offering glimpses of the sea. This path was once used to transport churns of West Cork butter to market.
From here, the Mizen Head peninsula begins, a land where the past is always present. A Neolithic portal tomb, easily accessible near the roadside, overlooks the bay. A path leads to Three Castle Head, where fields give way to a dramatic stretch of jagged coastline, with steep, tufted hills mirroring the rise and fall of the Atlantic waves. The hike gradually ascends, then becomes steeper, revealing the ruins of three weathered towers – 15th-century remnants of a defensive castle perched on a limestone ridge. From afar, they appear almost to have grown out of the rock itself, overlooking an indigo bay cradled within a lush green valley. Back in the car, the road dips and climbs again toward Mizen Head Signal Station, mainland Ireland's most southwesterly point. The footbridge to Fastnet signal station, a solid span above the Atlantic, is a truly cinematic sight.
That evening, back in Ballydehob, I discovered Chestnut, a Michelin-starred restaurant, where former pub walls now house a refined dining room helmed by chef Rob Krawczyk. His tasting menu showcases the season's bounty with clear, defined flavors, incorporating preserved, foraged, and locally grown ingredients. Everything is impeccable and aligns perfectly with the progressive, ecologically conscious, and quietly revolutionary spirit of this corner of West Cork. As Didi so eloquently stated, "Sustainability is only part of the story – regeneration is the next step."
(Adapted from a trip provided by Native. Double rooms from €200 a night B&B (two-night minimum). Exclusive hire of the guesthouse, sleeping six, from €650 per night, and garden sauna experience €75. Cabins, sleeping two, from €350. Original inspiration from an article in The Guardian.)